Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of cities cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has always shaped its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – little-known delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their children are unwilling to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these stories and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
